I’m looking to get into road cycling. What bike should I buy?
Many friends and colleagues ask where to begin when buying their first road bike, subject to a few qualifying criteria confirming this is more than about commuting to work…
- I want this bike for fitness / dedicated rides
- I’m ready to buy clip-in shoes and pedals
- I plan on wearing cycling kit, not just gym clothes
So here’s my summary…
- Aim to spent $1100-$1600 on the bike, by always buying a (new) bike on sale
- Ideally buy a carbon frame, but alloy is fine too
- Shimano 105 are high quality, entry-level race components
- Frame size is important. If you buy a bike online, try and find a similar bike in-store
Introduction
A road bike — suitable for recreational riding through to racing — is typically 22-speed, has an alloy (Aluminium) or carbon frame, drop-style handlebars, and will sell without pedals (as you’re expected to buy clip-in pedals). Road bikes will typically sell with rim brakes, however most models are now moving towards disk brakes — which provide a more responsive and consistent braking experience — as the technology becomes more accessible.
There are really only three major parts to a road bike…
Frame
Wheels
Components
At the entry level, the brand makes very little difference, so once you decide on these three parts, focus on price.
Frame
Common road bike frame materials are alloy or carbon.
Until recently carbon was very expensive and reserved for top-end bikes only, but as manufacturing continues to become cheaper and more reliable, carbon frames are more common thanks to their lighter and stiffer build relative to their alloy counterparts.
I recommend a carbon frame as most manufactures will only make a few frame styles, and therefore the “entry-level” carbon bike often has the same frame as a model double the price with higher-end components, so you’re typically getting a good deal. This also means that if you decide to upgrade parts later, the frame will be well suited to better components.
At the entry level, typically I’m seeing carbon frames costing about $300 more than Alloy frames, starting at around $1600.
Frame size is measured by the length of the seat tube, however the exact length definition varies between manufacturers, so it’s best to try the bike in-store even if you buy online. Manufacturers will post their size charts online if you need to compare between models. For example, a medium size typically corresponds to a seat tube of 54cm and suits a rider height of 5’7” – 5’11”. The sales rep will help explain the right size for you, but a simple measure of correct seat height (aiming for the middle of the seat post’s adjustable range) is a fully extended leg when your heel is placed on the pedal at its lowest point.
Components
Components — or groupset — include the brakes, levers, derailleurs (gearing), cogs, cranks, etc. Shimano is the major player in the market, and SRAM is another player with a full range of components from entry-level to high performance.
The most important components are derailleurs & levers, then brakes. Entry-level bikes might use Shimano gearing and levers, but lower-cost brands like FSA on the brakes and crankset, which is completely fine.
I recommend Shimano as they have a huge market share and high quality products that are easy to replace. Their shifting design — two paddles built into the brake lever — is very easy to use.
Shimano 105 is Shimano’s mid-tier groupset, behind Shimano Ultegra and Shimano Dura-Ace (best). 105 is fully compatible/interchangeable with Ultegra and Dura-Ace, meaning it’s almost the same product, but at a lower price point by using heavier parts (like steel instead of Titanium, or plastic instead of carbon), and slightly coarser machining tolerance. Most new riders will not notice a major difference between these three groupsets.
It would be fine to go cheaper, but lower-level components typically won’t be compatible with higher-level sets if you want to upgrade later. Shimano’s next model down — Tiagra — is not compatible with 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace. If you’re planning on spending the money on a carbon frame however, I would consider 105 the minimum.
Wheels
For an entry level bike, don’t worry about it. The wheels will be good, but maybe a little heavy, which is fine. Wheels are easy to upgrade in future, and even high-end bikes often come with mid-range wheels, because they expect you to upgrade to something more specific. For my time trial (TT) bike, I immediately updated the wheels from standard alloy wheels to aero (deep rim) carbon wheels. Alloy wheels are much cheaper than carbon, and you’re not going to find carbon wheels on an entry-level road bike (again, this is fine).
Price
If you purchase a carbon frame and Shimano 105, you’ll have an awesome bike suitable for racing, at a fair price. Typically, the retail price of a carbon/105 bike is US$1600. You’ll get better quality (Shimano Ultegra and better wheels) up to around $2500, however beyond this price point you’ll see diminishing returns on your money as manufacturers fine tune models to reduce weight or aerodynamic drag.
Important: buy last year’s model on sale. Bikes don’t change much each year. You start to notice significant improvements on a 3-year timeframe.
My goal would be to spend US$1200 on a carbon/105 bike on sale, or US$1800 on a carbon/Ultegra bike on sale.
Often the discounts are driven by the manufacturer/brand, not the store. So a store will be selling “All prior-year Scott models 20% off”, for example, and other Scott dealers will be doing the same.
- Generic brands use white-labeled carbon frames and typically sell online (Ribble, Nashbar)
- Entry brands target the lower end of the market (Malvern Star, Apollo, Kestrel, Fuji)
- Volume brands span the full range rider types and interests (Scott, Giant, Focus) – I typically see the best value for money and end-of-season discounting in these brands
- High-end brands invest most significantly at the top-end of the market (Cervelo, Specialized, Trek, Pinarello, BMC)
In store vs online: If you don’t have a lot of experience with bike maintenance, buying in-store will typically come with included servicing for 12months. Online is cheaper but you need to know how to maintain and assemble the bike, or have a good friend who knows what they’re doing. Some folks still buy online but take the bike to a store to be assembled for ~$50.
Online bike marketplaces such as Bike Exchange (AUS site | USA site) allow you to quickly search for the specifications you’re seeking (choose carbon or alloy material, Shimano 105 or Shimano Ultegra components, your size range, your price range). You’ll quickly spot the deals and get an idea of price ranges, even if you buy an alternative model in store.
I’m also seeing generic brands at very competitive price points, such as nashbar.com, which offers a carbon / 105 model as cheaply as US$900-1200 (the price fluctuates, but I’ve seen it in 2018 as low as US$750). I know four different riders who have purchased this model, and there have been no complaints / concerns in build quality despite the low price point.
My first bike was a Focus Cayo 2.0, with carbon frame and Ultegra components, which I purchased for 35% off the retail price at the end of it’s model year. I’ve seen similar deals on the equivalent 2018 model as the 2019 model was being introduced.
My current road and TT racing bikes were also purchased over-the-phone at a 40% discount, and online (via eBay) at a 55% discount, respectively. The road bike was a current-year model, while the TT bike was a 2014 model purchased in early 2016.
At the end of the day, I’d much rather get a higher-spec bike for my budget than the latest model or most popular brand.
Keep in mind you’ll have a few other expenses to get started…
- Shoes: Try and buy something on sale in the range $80-$120. Make sure you’re buying a road bike shoe which has a three-screw configuration and no/very little tread on the sole. The better quality shoes have a very stiff (carbon) sole which prevents the shoe from flexing when you pedal
- Pedals: Look and Shimano are the major players in the market. I’d recommend Shimano’s 105 SPD-SL model
- Helmet: Be careful not to buy something too cheap here, as I find cheaper helmets have a poor fit and breathability. I’d spend at least US$60 – $80, such as Giro Foray.
- Do not plan to ride with a lock (you can buy one, but don’t mount it to the bike). This is a performance bike, not a commuter!
Good luck… Let me know what you buy!